{"id":987,"date":"2009-02-26T07:29:00","date_gmt":"2009-02-26T06:29:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.michael-krell.com\/?p=987"},"modified":"2017-04-18T15:52:25","modified_gmt":"2017-04-18T13:52:25","slug":"pimp-my-bike","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.michael-krell.com\/en\/pimp-my-bike\/","title":{"rendered":"pimp my bike!"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a> Hello everybody,<\/p>\n

For years I have tried to improve my position on the bike. Not only so that I look cooler and more professional, but also because it saves a few seconds. The big advantage is that you get these seconds for free and without any additional training!<\/p>\n

I started on an old GDR steel racing bike with a top tube gearshift. I don't know who heard that before, but it must have been Jan Ullrich's father. My four gears ranged from hellishly difficult to impossible to pedal J In slow motion, I tortured my way up the mountains with it. My first aerodynamic improvement was a \u201c20 Euro\u201d time trial attachment. Of course, this was far too short and after a few kilometers my forearms, which were resting on the pads, hurt a lot.<\/p>\n

Fortunately, those times are over and today I have gained a few more experiences in this regard. My knowledge of aerodynamics is based solely on experience and what I have read.<\/p>\n

Seat tube angle and saddle position<\/strong>
\nThis determines a lot, namely the necessary length and the possible position of the time trial attachment. The standard seat tube position on a normal racing bike is 73 degrees. This is the best all-round position, as it is in this position that you can develop the most strength and, best of all, crank up the mountains. In the end, there is no reason to change this position, except that at a larger angle (e.g. 78 degrees) you can "slide" a long way forward on the bike and thus lower the time trial attachment, i.e. the wind - (Front) surface of the body minimized. Although the possible power development decreases, the speed increases because the wind resistance is reduced.
\nThe faster you can ride a bike, the greater the effect, of course.<\/p>\n

My experience in this regard is that I can still crank well with an angle of 78 degrees and still have enough leeway in the front of the cockpit. Personally, I wouldn't go any further forward, as the muscular strain then moves towards the rear thigh, on which you naturally have much less strength than on the front.
\nThe nose of the saddle is horizontal until it slopes slightly forward. But only slightly. If the saddle nose goes too far down, the permanent pressure on the legs increases because you are less \u201csitting\u201d on the saddle. I prefer normal saddles, without a wider nose, as is common with Tria saddles. It's probably a matter of taste, but for me it's more comfortable and I don't squeeze my E\u2026 while driving.<\/p>\n

Essay<\/strong>
\nWith the attachment you can tease out the lion's share of the free time. This must be the right length. Determine the saddle position beforehand. The forearms should rest on the pads just before the elbows. The upper arm to forearm angle should be 90 degrees. Otherwise the pressure on the shoulders when driving will be too great, they will start to hurt and you will cramp.
\nNot like that\u2026<\/p>\n

\n
<\/div>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I prefer extension arms that are curved upwards at the front because of the more natural arm position. With straight arms, my wrists tense up too much and start to burn properly after 40km at the latest.<\/p>\n

The depth of the attachment determines the position of the upper body on the bike. The deeper the better. But only up to a certain limit. The upper body should be as horizontal as possible. Otherwise the angle between the upper and lower body will be too small and the possible power development will be minimized too much.<\/p>\n

I advise against tilting the extension arms downwards, on the contrary, the extension arms can be inclined "upwards". This brings the shoulders closer together and minimizes the frontal area. When the arms are tilted down, the shoulders diverge and thus become wider.
\nnot like that\u2026<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"
\nImpellers
\n<\/strong>A costly factor, which, however, can have a big impact. In my opinion, this is where the second greatest potential for time saved lies. Even if individual newspaper reports bring out dubious results. The windshield is the most aerodynamic, it's just that physically. However, this also weighs more than flank wheels and really only brings something from around 35km \/ average per hour. Especially on routes prone to cross winds and lighter (weaker) drivers, you have to consider the use. Flank wheels are probably the best compromise. Here, however, beware of "soft" wheels, this is becoming increasingly important, especially for riders over 75kg. If the wheels are too soft, too much energy is simply lost. You can easily test whether your wheels are too soft:
\nPlace a passenger directly behind you and step hard on the pedals as you step out of the saddle. "Soft" wheels give way to the side and the rear rider can see that clearly. "How is the distance between the wheel and the brake pads?"<\/p>\n

These wheels are less critical at the front, as there are no tensile forces acting there as on the rear wheel. Personally, I have a combination of a soft front wheel (for financial reasons) and a rear disc.<\/p>\n

Aero helmet<\/strong>
\nMuch more important than the brand of the helmet is the seat of the helmet. Ideally, the long nose rests on the back. Then a perfectly streamlined surface is created, the greater the distance between the helmet nose and the back, the more this "surface" is disturbed by air turbulence.<\/p>\n

If you use an aero helmet, you should also be careful not to look down too often. Then the wind resistance is greater than with a normal helmet.<\/p>\n

additional<\/strong>
\nThe leg position when descending should always be horizontal, so do not let one foot down and the other \u201chang\u201d up, this increases the resistance.<\/p>\n

Aerotrink systems mainly prevent the inconvenient grip on the drinking bottle while driving. From a purely aerodynamic point of view, it is negligible whether the bottle is installed in the front or in the drinking bottle container.<\/p>\n

Place changing items, etc .. behind the saddle, but not too high! This disturbs the "wind bubble" that wanders down the back of the helmet and finally leaves the rider at the saddle. It is better to put the change of clothes a little lower, slightly below the height of the buttocks.<\/p>\n

So, these are my experiences that I have gained over my competition time. There is one thing that should not be forgotten in all these considerations. The perfect position is of little use if you can't drive it. Comfort plays an increasingly important role, especially on longer journeys!<\/p>\n

Aerodynamic positions also require good torso stability, otherwise you will get back pain faster than you think.<\/p>\n

How are your experiences with it?
\nI like to keep learning !!<\/p>\n

Skin clean<\/p>\n

krelli<\/p><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Hi everyone, For years I have tried to improve my position on the bike. 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